In choosing collars for custom made shirts, the most important consideration is the relationship of the collar to neck and face proportions. The spread and height of the collar can invite attention to a man’s physical differences, or serve to make these features less conspicuous, or unnoticeable. For example, a short neck calls for custom shirts with a longer collar with less of a spread, which provides a balanced look and takes the focus way from the neck itself. We can help you choose the spread, height and width that flatters your appearance regardless of your neck proportions.
Comfort is also critical in collar selection. Some men prefer looser collars. Besides begin more comfortable, a collar that is slightly loose can offset the appearance of a muscular neck, creating a thinning effect so it doesn’t seem so thick.
It is best to have collars professionally fitted. One of the secrets of expert tailoring is that a collar that fits well before laundering is actually too tight for comfort. Cotton shirts will shrink at least 3/8” to 1/2"in the first few launderings.
Shirt collars and custom suits should work beautifully together. When your order from our custom shirt shop, our custom tailors make sure your collar is properly fitted from day one.
Collars Define Your Personal Style
Collars have a long and colorful history. Many styles that were popular decades ago have returned to vogue, while others have evolved in exciting new directions. Our custom tailors are schooled in all styles of custom made shirts. They are prepared to discuss the tasteful possibilities so you can make informed decisions.
For ordering convenience, our collars are numbered 0 – 14. Here is a brief description of the more popular styles.
0 Collar is our fashion-forward and contemporary narrow spread collar. This collar can be made in widths of 3” to 4_” and with a height of 1 ¾” to 2 ¼”. The choice is yours and It all depends on how dashing yours would like to be.
Collars 1 and 2 are our classic straight collars. With points slightly closer together, Collar 1 is the staple of any man’s wardrobe. Collar 2 is a strong choice as well, with points that flare just a bit more. Collar points should be 2 5/8” to 3 1/4” long, depending on your neck height and width.
These collars are comfortable dressed up or down, depending on the fabric or cuff style chosen. Custom shirts with these collars can also be dressy, worn with a tie bar that slides through the collar and holds the points down around the tie. They are great for casual wear as well, worn open with the collar stays removed. Beautiful and functional, these collars are appropriate with any and every style of suit.
Classic Spread Collar 6 is another wardrobe staple. This distinctive style has a little extra flare for a more open look. A versatile classic, it flatters any suit style. Recommended lengths are 2 5/8 to 3 ¼” with a height of 1 5/8 to 2 ¼” .
English Spread Collar 4 has been an enduring favorite of London’s German Street shirts makers. With a little less spread than the cutaway (#14), this dressy one is natty for accompanying suits or blazers.
Cutaway Collar 14 is our extreme wide spread collar. Notice how the collar tips are pulled way back to the side to allow a full view of the necktie knot. Cutaway collars are recommended with wide and prominent neckties which enjoy a dramatic and unfettered presentation.
Classic Button Down Collar 3 is the most comfortable of all the collar styles, made with a soft lining and no collar stays. It features two collar points held in place by small buttons. This collar is usually fashioned with a soft roll and a 3/8" tie space to easily accommodate a tie. Typically quarter stitched (the classic collar finishing), and completed with button cuffs.
Custom made shirts with this collar style work well with more casual body patterns, with pleated backs or sleeves (compared to split-yoke of the non-button-down styles.) It is often worn open in casual wear and is also quite stunning in the company of a bow tie.
Although acceptable business attire, Collar #3 does not work well with dressy suits or double-breasted styled jackets and should not be worn in these contexts. Keep it casual.
Originally from England, the contrasting white collar found a home in the United States during the 90's. This dressy look is appropriate now with all collars, with the exception of button down and hidden button down styles. White collars and cuff make a most impressive ensemble in custom made shirts.
As they have gained popularity, white collars are now worn by media stars and politicians who need to look their very best. It’s easy to understand why. White collars always look fresh and smart. The wearer can scarcely help but feel great, and project confidence in any setting. Since the first thing you see is the white collar, this look is always dressy. But it also gives you the opportunity to add color to your wardrobe, not to mention truly elegant contrast.
Pin Collars 12 and 1E are a favorite of the meticulous dresser who takes the time and effort to dress impeccably. They feature a pin that passes through the collar and has bars that snap onto the collar. Another configuration is a bar with a screw and ball c that connects through eyelets. Pin Collars are nice with business suits and blazers, and are especially well chosen by men with medium to longer necks.
Contour Spread 9 was popularized by the basketball icon Pat Riley. Today this collar has found its way into many new arenas, where its dressy look is nicely complemented by French cuffs. This collar should always be worn with a tie.
Narrow Contour 9N spread is inspired by the shape of the "Riley" and the narrow spread of the "A". Also known as "Jordan," this style is distinguished by a comfortable low-rise collar that tucks in towards the chest and frames the tie with a curved, narrow spread 3" point collar. Considered dressy and usually made with French cuffs, this tie should never be seen in public unless accompanied by a tie.
Collar 11 This relative newcomer was inspired by the "Business Casual" trend at the office. Shaped like our classic button down collar, it has buttons under the collar that attach to the shirt, creating a straight collar with a sporty look. This collar can be worn with a tie and also performs famously when worn open.
Tab Collar 5 has an appeal that is easy to appreciate. It gives the wearer a clean, classic look which focuses attention on the tie. Fitting high on the neck, it has a small loop attached to both collar points and is fastened under the tie.
The tab collar is seen with many types of closures: buttons, snaps and studs. We make our custom shirts with the button closure, as it pushes the tie knot forward and gives it a nice arch, while the loops keep it properly positioned all day long. If you prefer, we’ll gladly make your tab collars with snaps or studs. Keep in mind that since this style is made with a higher band, it is not best suited for the man with a shorter neck.
Matching collars to facial features may be new to you. Here are some guidelines that will help you make fitting decisions.
Facial Features Most flattering collars Spreads
Thin elongated face or angular features 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 9, 11, 14
Rounded Face 0, 1, 2, 3, 6, 9N, 11
We recommend a higher-banded collar for a long neck, and a lower banded collar for short neck.
If you have a broad face and a heavy neck, consider our collars 0, 1 and 2 and 6.
All our shirts are made with removable collar stays. We are pleased to send you extras when you need them. Just ask.