There has been constant discontent on the big and tall fashion industry that the industry does not recognise that all people are not the exact size and shape. For a long time this lack of awareness has made the customers suffer. This generalized approach can also be seen on runways where only the super models, the people who have body proportions that cannot be seen normally are the ones used to display the outfits. The mannequins displayed in the shops also have a general figure which makes it seem too mainstream.
This is the same for mens fashion with many companies still not flexible to big and tall sizes. Because of this inconvenience, big and tall people who normally enjoy shopping also shy away from visiting the stores. There is a proportionate shape that they take it as the standard and clothings are designed according to this. There are only a few group of people who have this standard shape and this is what makes the shopping hard for people with unconventional shapes. But recently the industry is trying to be more understanding with them employing plus size models for runways and also introducing varieties in their size charts. There are also online platforms that offer varied options to choose from. If you are a person who fall under the category of big and tall then all you have to do is to know how to select your big and tall clothing and how to style them so that they suit your body shape.
Now first of all, to check whether you fall under the category of big and tall you will have to know what constitutes of this category. Basically when it comes to big it refers to body shape that has larger sizes of waist, hips and chest. When we say tall it means the people who will need tall sizes since they are usually 6'2" or taller in height. Big and tall refers to the sizes that are required by men who come under both this category. Any guy who is 5'11" and with waist and hips that are about the same width as the shoulders can be considered to come under this category. Most of the brands and retailers have a size chart that you will have to check with before getting the outfits since it may vary with brands and manufacturers.
Now the first thing you will have to do when you want to dress right is to get the proper fit to anything you buy. This may look to be a simple task but there are some key details that you will have to know and follow.
The basic is to give a little extra attention to your big and tall body frame. You will have to select clothes that are generously cut but make sure that they do not overdo it since it can look sloppy or makes you look bigger than you already are. Now we will discuss the fits of the clothings that will make you look chic and elegant.
When it comes to big and tall jackets it may be better to lean towards the longer side. Shorter jackets will make the taller men look even taller which is not pleasing to the eye. Thus getting a slightly longer one and if you get it properly tailored then it makes you look slimmer too that balancing out the extra inches and pounds. If you still feel that you look too tall in tailored suits then go with unmatched trousers and jackets. While the full suit looks you look taller due to the unbroken vertical line due to the matching color and fabrics the unmatched style breaks this line thus making you look slightly less tall. A classic navy blue jacket paired with another color of trousers that varies but complements the navy for example charcoal trousers and crisp white shirt is a good look for taller men.
As for the shoulders of the jackets make sure that they fall gracefully off your natural shoulder. This doesn't mean that it should hand off your shoulders since they mean that the jacket is too big for you. If you have fabric that you can bunch up in the front then it also means that you have a larger size so you will have to size it down. It is equally important to avoid jackets that are too tight since they are extremely uncomfortable. They create tension around the shoulder area and you can see the shoulder of the jacket jutting out of the natural shoulder.
For big and tall men one clothing that is hard to fit is the shirt. You should get this fit right to get a proper overall look. The main thing you will have to note when it comes to the fit of the shirt is the shoulders. The shoulder seams should fall naturally at the end of your shoulders. If you feel that the seams are too high up on your shoulders or is falling too wide then you will have to try on a different size. While the seams are falling off it means your shirt is too loose but if the seams are high up then get a larger size since the shirt will be too tight thus feeling very uncomfortable.
Sleeve length is another important aspect to note when choosing your style. This is one of the main problems the big and
tall men face when shopping especially for coats. When it comes to big and tall shirts you will have to ensure that the sleeve length is atleast a half inch below the break of your wrist. This is important since the sleeves of the big and tall shirt have to show a quarter of an inch when you wear a jacket or even a sweater over the shirt. This length is the standard so that your sleeve do not feel too tight.
If your shirts are ripping at the exact same area of elbows then it means that you are getting shirts that are incorrect length. If the sleeves of your shirt is too short then it creates tension in the elbow portion which turns intense when you bend or sit hunched up in your computer desk.
The big and tall jackets should have sleeve lengths that are usually a quarter of three fourth inch shorter than the shirt sleeves. If you are thinking of getting an overcoat make sure that the sleeve length covers to both your shirt and jacket sleeve thus when paired with gloves it properly serves its original purpose that is keeping the wearer warm in cold.
The chest portion of the shirt should fit properly since they are the portion that lies in the direct sight line. If you are a person with flat or narrow chest area then it will be easier for you to get the proper fit when compared to muscular men. For men with built chest area the circumference becomes too large thus finding the right fit becomes hard. If the shirt is too tight then the fabric starts to pull at the buttons area thus creating a lot of pull lines at the chest area. When this happens you can opt for shirts with larger neck sizes that gives you extra room in the shirt and for broader shoulders. If the shirt size is too loose then consider taking it to your tailor and get them to fit it.
The length of the shirt should ideally fall just at the base of your backside. This is because of the fact that they are designed with the thought that they will be tucked in and providing extra fabric will make them bunch up at the trousers when tucked in. You should choose the width of the shirt from the usual classic, slim or the other options. If they do not feel right then it is better to go with custom made big and tall shirts.
When it comes to trousers it is better to go with ones that are high waisted that sit at the navel. Many people who fall under the big and tall category prefer to wear the trousers at the hips to break the vertical line but make sure that it doesn't bulk up your hip territory. If you choose to wear cuffs then go with styles that are a little larger than the standard size since they will blend properly with the larger proportions.
It is imperative that you have to get the right fit for the trousers since if it isn't right then you will feel extremely uncomfortable all day long when walking or doing anything. If you don't know your proper measurement then it is better to go visit your local tailor or menswear shop and get a simple measuring done. When you feel comfortable in the clothing and also if you are able to stick in atleast two fingers into the waistband while wearing it then know that you have got your ideal fit. If you categorise yourself as being big and tall then it is better to go with pleated styles of trousers since they give you extra room while bending your legs or while sitting down. Make sure that you don't get a size that is unnecessarily large which gives you a baggy look.
As for the length of the big and tall trousers the legs should be falling just over the top of your shoe. Anything shorter than that will make you look like you are wearing a high water trouser and anything lengthier gives a saggy look. Also wear them at the natural waistline that gives a streamlined look. This will create a illusion of longer legs for bigger men and hide the larger middle portion.
Now that we have covered all the major components of the big and tall suit there are some details you can focus upon to get a cleaner look. If you are a taller person you will need longer than average ties since the length of the ties should always the top of the waistband after it is knotted. The width of the necktie should sync properly with the lapel size of your jacket.
It is also best to incorporate patterns into your outfit. If you are on the taller and bulky side opt for solid and subtle textures that are not too overwhelming. If you are on the larger side in the middle area then go for medium to large patterns that match with the outfit. But remember not to overdo it like wearing both suits and the shirts with patterns.
For big and tall men especially for those who lean more towards the heavier side it is better to go with suspenders than with belts. While the belts divide your torso into two parts creating more attention towards your middle part which can work for taller than average men but doesn't work in the favor of heavier men. Suspenders give a more fluid outfit without any distractions.
For big and tall shirts try to get spread collars. These wider collars help balance out the broad shoulders and gives more room to tie larger knots in ties. This looks proportionate to your larger build and the bigger cut of the clothing.
If you are on the bigger side you must most probably avoid double breasted suits since they can make you look wider than you already are. Also another option is to keep the V shape of the jacket shorter with a higher top button in the jacket. This creates a proper fluidity to the suit and also does not gather much attention to the belly. But if you are on the leaner tall side feel free to try on the double breasted suits.
The shoes should match your outfit and also should properly carry your frame. If you are going with subtle outfit then stick with classic shoes that do not have much details. Accessories also should balance your frame. If you are a person of large frame go with larger accessories that complements your body shape. But if you are on the lanky side keep it at minimum since larger ones may look unbalanced
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